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Monday, June 13, 2011

My route to North Carolina

After consultation with my brother - rt 11 to Pulaski, then the New River trail to Galax.  Then eventually through Roaring Gap and on to Wilksboro.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Day 12 - a tough one

Tough mentally.  First, missed Alicia quite a lot today.  Next - yesterday, every decision I made went well.  Not today.  First, I accidentally killed an hour in Glasgow looking for a restaurant that was closed, then talking to a hiker while I ate some peanut butter.  Similar to yesterday I followed a road by the river, but this time it ended being unpaved, and had a shockingly steep climb back up to the main road.  That took me up to that crappy restaurant.  After a nice swim in Buchanan, I realized that I was on the Trans America trail.  I followed it twice.  The first was nice, but the second time went over some tough hills.  Finally I got back on the main road, and limped into Roanoke.

Tough physically.  After a delightfully foggy start (including foggy mountains - very nice), it heated up again and was back to 90 and humid by lunch.  All those hills and the unpaved road really added up today.  I sort of hit a wall just as I reached the edge of Roanoke, which was just as well because it started to rain.  I destroyed a soup and salad bar for over an hour before I felt better.

Tough logistically.  I'm not sure where to go from here.  The parkway goes right over the mountains.  I can go south, then parallel the parkway to Asheville.  Or I can stay north, then drop into Asheville through Tennessee.  I'm not taking the parkway, and Google gives similar distances for the other two.  I foolishly didn't think to call a bike shop for advice until they had all closed this afternoon (file that under the mental mistakes).

So, I found myself out of time to get out of Roanoke, short on energy to do so, and not even knowing which way to go if I did.  I've ended up in a motel in Southwest Roanoke, sort of the farthest I can get today and still go either north or south tomorrow. I will call a bike shop in the morning and figure out where to go, and then I'll be back on my way.

Getting to Asheville on the 15th is still a possibility, but I don't know for sure.  I'll figure out what changes to make to plans with my brother.

But I should be clear...a day like this is not out of the ordinary for a trip like this, and I remain in high spirits.  Not every day will end with drinking beer and listening to music in the rain after 77 great miles.  I'll be fine, but I figured I'd use this to record all of the trip, both good and bad.  Tomorrow is another day!

Roanoke skyline

Meh.

Roanoke

More like Rain-anoke.  That's four consecutive days with an afternoon storm.  I think the pattern lasts another few days before its past.

Trans America route

Seems that I've accidentally intersected the Trans America bike route.  This on-road route goes from Yorkville, VA to Denver, then on to Oregon.  I will be following it again out West.  I followed it through some back roads already, it seems very nice. 

Only problem is that many bikers take it.  I still haven't seen any yet, but there are signs of them (like bike-related business cards on a convenience store counter).  It's fun to be the first cross-country cyclist that people have met, and it certainly won't happen much along this route!

Swimming in the James River

With bike in sight, finally got to go for a relaxing swim.  Washed my lunch experience right off...





Bad service

Ever walk into a restaurant and get that Bad Service vibe?  But you go in anyway, because you're already there?  So you wait a few minutes while the one waitress gets around to cleaning a table for you, then a few more minutes until they get you coffee, and then 20 minutes until your pancakes come because they ran out of batter?

And at that point, are you mad at the restaurant or yourself, because you somehow knew all along what was going to happen?

Mountain View Restaurant in Buchanan, VA!

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Oh boy

I told you it was good beer.

A quick thunderstorm passed through. I'll find out tonight how waterproof my stuff is.

The bar is under a tent, and I'm sitting along the edge.  Had a moment where I leaned by head back, out into the rain, while listening to the music.  Life is awfully good.



Franks for the Memories

This is where I am relaxing with my second large beer (only $2.99!) after an all-around excellent day of biking.  The day in order:

Camped at mile 80 (of 105) on Skyline, so woke up and finished off the park.  It was very bittersweet as I stopped at my last overlook.  It was also mostly downhill, with out any major climbs.  So that was nice.

Got into Waynesboro and had my little crisis.  Not an especially attractive city, despite the all-American soap box derby (note that my picture had only one racer because his opponent had crashed into a telephone pole near the top).  Headed out of town toward I-81 and Staunton, which was dumpy as well.

Rather the follow shoulder-less Rt 11, I went one valley north and took 919, a lovely farm road that eventually took me to Fairfield (wild flowers were on this road).

From Fairfield, my farm road option disappeared, but I had the genius idea to cut south to Rt. 608 at Marlbrook.  That road took me next to a river (flat!) in to Buena Vista (pronounced "Byoona Vista").  This lovely town lives up to its name (see photo) and is home to Southern Virginia University.  

Rather than camp on the river, I will probably camp in town in Glen Maury park.  They have a campground, and the office is currently closed and doesn't open until 8:00 (wink wink).

So now I find myself listening to a Paul Simon look alike (original songs as far as I can tell) and drinking delicious local beer (Starr Hill Jomo) until I feel content to go shower (!!!) at the campground and call it a night.

Oh yeah - my 3 days in Shenandoah have given me super energy legs.  I am now officially whipped into shape and should begin kicking some serious ass.

There are pretty roads down here, too!

Somehow manages to find South River Rd, which I took from Marlbrook to here.  Followed a river and train tracks through a canyon, and just opened up on this little town.  Word us I can camp just about anywhere along the river.  I'll see how I feel and maybe I'll do it!

Virginia Wildflowers





Blue Ridge Parkway, and the valley blues

I made the decision last night to skip the Parkway.  What finally prompted this is that I took all the bags off the bike at a campsite, and was amazed by how much faster it was.  I'm really pushed a lot of weight.  Skyline was amazing, but the BRP is more difficult:
1 - Farther between campsites/food/water.  As much as 60 miles or more, which is more than I did all of yesterday on Skyline)
2 - Steeper, more challenging
3 - Higher speed limit for cars, less bike friendly overall.

So, I would ideally return some day with a lighter bike and lighter load, so I can enjoy those extra hills and make it from camp to camp (or at least from water to water).  And also more time, so I could go for a hike one day instead of biking.  Im sure I'd be capable of doing it now, but I'd probably be frustrated.

Finally, I'm not biking in Europe or Asia...I could drive from Boston to Waynesboro in one day.  Biking the parkway, fortunately, is not a once in a lifetime opportunity.  I'll come back in the future and do it right.

Ok.  So, I finished skyline, biked 100 feet onto the parkway just for fun, then zoomed down into Waynesboro.  And I miss the hills.  It's hot down here and ugly and full of traffic and trucks and overpasses.  I still think I've made the right choice, but I do already look back on the last few days very fondly.

This made me feel a little better...the Waynesboro soap box derby!







Shenandoah recap

I am so happy that I bike through Shenandoah.  I can't imagine anything more beautiful and rewarding as what I just enjoyed.  And to think I still have more mountains in a few days.  Not to mention the Rockies!

Rather than swamp you with landscape photos, here's a few goofier ones.



Almost done in Shenandoah

Ridges giving way to more valley and farmland.  I'll miss it here.